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Mt. Baker: North Ridge, August 6 - 9, 2005 AAI guide Aidan Loehr and climber Richard Pedersen (Alexandria, VA) returned last week from a successful climb on Mt. Baker's North Ridge. Rich already had strong snow and glacier skills - while working throughout the 1990's as an engineer at a US military base in Germany, he had taught crevasse rescue and snow skills in the Alps. He signed up for this course to strengthen his technique on ice. During the first two days, Rich and Aidan went over ice climbing techniques and sequences on the lower Coleman Glacier. Rich learned how to place ice screws, create additional forms of ice protection, and ice climbing techniques for the alpine environment. Rich proved quickly to be a quick learner and strong climber. On the morning of day three, Rich and Aidan began climbing towards the North Ridge, planning to bivy that night and make a high camp at around 8,500 feet. Aidan said, "The glacier was very broken up that morning, challenging us with tricky route finding and some serious ice climbing. In fact, the climbing up to high camp was the most difficult on the whole mountain and the crux of the route. We did two complicated pitches of 60-degree ice, and a lot of weaving in and out of crevasses. We reached high camp after 12 hours of climbing - a long day!" The two made an open bivy with just sleeping bags and pads on a rock buttress, having left their tents down at their base camp at the base of the glacier. Rich said, "It was a beautiful night, tons of stars out. We could also see the lights of Bellingham and Vancouver. It was spectacular to sleep out in the open like that, on the high shoulders of such an impressive mountain." The next morning, the two rose early and were climbing by 5:45am. After a few mellow ice pitches of 60 to 70-degree ice, and a lot of glacier travel, they were on the summit at 10:30am. Rich said, "It was great to be on top, after taking such an exciting route up. We couldn't stay up there too long, as we had to descend before the snow became too soft." Rich and Aidan made an "uneventful" descent via the standard Coleman-Demming route, and were down at the trailhead by 5:15pm, and back at AAI in Bellingham at 7:15pm. "It was a pretty perfect trip," Aidan said. "Great weather, great route, and Rich was very strong. I hope he comes back to climb with us." |